For the past 2 years I had the pleasure of living in Brunswick, a gritty inner city suburb known in popular culture for its myriad ethnicities, shootings (gangland figure Lewis Moran gunned down at the Brunswick Club, strip club bouncer shot by unsatisfied customer…) and Mediterranean Wholesalers, the biggest Italian supermarket in Melbourne. While fully-gentrified Fitzroy clings to its bohemian past to maintain street cred, Brunswick manages to do so with no pretensions; its edgy cafes and boutiques sitting side-by-side older establishments run by first-generation migrants from Turkey, Vietnam, Lebanon, Greece and Italy. These photos serve as a reminder of my time there.
Brunswick and its surrounding suburbs are home to a large population of Australians of Middle Eastern background. These neighbourhood groceries, quaint and familiar, act as both a link to their ancestral home and a treasure trove of Middle Eastern products like date cookies, Lebanese olive oil, instant falafel, Arabic coffee and an assortment of spices, two of my favourite of which are sumac – tangy powdered berries in a vibrant maroon hue, and za’atar – a salty mix of dried oregano, thyme and sesame seeds.
A coin operated laundry on Lygon Street, Brunswick East. I think blue is a very laundry and detergent-friendly colour, because we subconsciously associate it with water and cleanliness. Could this have informed the proprietor’s choice of decor?
If the prospect of sweet and yeasty things makes you happy, Sugardough is worth a visit. Popular with the locals looking for their weekly fix of cornetto – that’s Italian croissants, and custard bombolini – that’s Italian donuts. Why do things sound more delicious in Italian? Sugardough Panificio and Patisserie, 163 Lygon St Brunswick East
I just like how the red letters seem to remain defiant in the face of obliteration by time and neglect.
Dripping with bohemian appeal, La Paloma is famous in equal measure for its obscure location, small space and homemade churros topped with thick caramel (or dulce de leche if we’re being technical). At $2.50 and for the size, it seems a bit luxurious; I’d rather go for the churros at Queen Victoria Market, at a dollar a piece, fried on the spot and piping hot.
Go to La Paloma instead for its famed pastrami salad roll, which I have mused shamelessly about in a previous post. La Paloma cafe, 259 Albert St Brunswick
I usually leave the fluffy stuff for Facebook updates (yes I’m banal..) but I couldn’t get past this news blooper by the enigmatic SBS news presenter Lee Lin Chin. Between this and the other memorable news blooper on Channel Nine, I’m not sure which one rocks my socks off more.
Lunchtime crowd at Journal cafe, City Library. Known for its good coffee and tasty foccaccias, although to be fair that’s a claim equally applicable to many other Melbourne cafes. Some at the top of my head are, the veggie foccacia at three wise muffins at Melb Uni (roasted pumpkin, eggplant, capsicum, cheese, salad leaves and a smudge of olive oil and tomato paste) and the one at Green Refectory, Sydney Road Brunswick (extremely creamy feta, black olives, yoghurt and lentils).
Front facade of the Flinders St train station. Green-and-gold is to Australia what Orange is to the Netherlands. An odd colour combo in theory, it works surprisingly well here, albeit in a takes-a-while-to-get-used-to-it sorta way.
The Altona line is running a little late…
Ol’ skool Italian. I’ve been meaning to come in and try their legendary pasta, but there are so many things in life I’d like to try but never got around to doing…
Teage Ezard’s Asian-inspired restaurant Gingerboy. Another one of those I-would-like-to-try-but-never-do, partly because of poverty, partly because of my perception that “Asian-inspired” is just an elegant way to describe toned-down Asian flavours. As a Malaysian I like my flavours bold and in your face, and yes preferably cheap. Anyway I think anyone growing up in Malaysia will invariably find poshed-up “hawker style food” restaurants disappointing. Best to go with the Italian.
I ran out of things to do the other day so I thought I’d just go for a walk around my neighbourhood and snap pictures.
Albert Coates Lane, QV. Don’t let the posh upmarket boutiques intimidate you. Walk along and an elevator down the basement brings you to the Big W discount store and the Woolworth’s supermarket where I get my groceries.
The graffiti covered walls around grungy Centre Lane
Centre Lane, flanked by buildings and choked with hole-in-the-wall cafes feeding the lunchtime crowd.
As close as you will get to a Melbourne version of Diagon Alley
Wahai cik abang adik bertanya My dear man I would like to ask
Hatimu yang kasih apalah tandanya x2 Your loving heart, what is the sign x2
Padi pulut padi lembah Glutinous paddy, paddy of the valley
Padi kuning di dalam peti (x2) Yellow paddy kept in the safe (x2)
Janji mulut boleh berubah A promise of the lips can change
Janji suci dibawa mati (x2) A sacred promise one keeps to death (x2)
Korus : Chorus:
Mari-mari cik adik Come come my lady
Mari-mari cik abang Come come my man
Mari kita berdendang Let us happily sing
Si pinang muda Of the young areca nut palm
Mari-mari cik adik Come come my lady
Mari-mari cik abang Come come my man
Menyanyilah, menarilah Let’s sing, let’s dance
Si-lah pinang muda Of the young areca nut palm
Ha-ha-hai ! Ha-ha-hai !
Si-lah pinang muda Of the young areca nut palm
Wahai cik adik abang nak tahu My dear lady I would like to know
Apakah ubatnya hatiku yang rindu x2 What is the cure for my yearning heart x2
Tinggi sungguh bulan satu How high is the one moon
Mana lawan bintang seribu (x2) Yet no match for a thousand stars (x2)
Kalau adik rasa rindu If my lady yearns for me
Dalam mimpi kita bertemu (x2) In the dreams shall we meet (x2)
Korus Chorus
Wahai cik abang mengapa tak percaya My dear man why won’t you believe me
Ambillah pisau nak ku belahkan dada x2 Take the knife I wish to tear open your chest x2
Dua tiga kucing berlari Two three cats running around
Mana nak sama kucing belang (x2) Unequal nonetheless to the striped cat (x2)
Dua tiga boleh cari Two three girls I can find for sure
Mana nak sama adik seorang (x2) Unequal nonetheless to the one my lady (x2)
Korus Chorus
Joget Si Pinang Muda (Joget of the Young Areca Nut Palm) is a song first featured in 1956 in the classic film Anakku Sazali (My Son Sazali). It tells of a poor orphan named Hassan who works for a wealthy man with a daughter named Mahani. Hassan has a deep passion for music and was sent to train as a musician while Mahani was wedded off to a man of her father’s choice. Hassan, who was in love with Mahani, could not accept the decision and before long, they both eloped to Singapore to be together. Hassan soon became a famous musician and was delighted by the arrival of his firstborn to Mahani. Joy turned to sorrow as Mahani died giving birth to a son, Sazali. Hassan, bereft of his beloved wife, showered his only son with unrestrained affection which turned Sazali into a spoilt brat. Sazali grew up to become a gang leader and this brought further misery to his doting father.
That’s a quick synopsis of the movie. Anyway, the song concerns the loving relationship between Hassan and Mahani, featured in the first video from a scene in the movie. It shows the couple, brilliantly played by P. Ramlee and Zaiton Abdullah (although the female singer is Normadiah), playfully teasing each other before dancing the joget to the tune of the song. I really love this scene; the effortless chemistry between the two partners accentuates the playful innocence of Malay couples in classic movies, a fundamentally different alternative to the sensuous lovemaking typical of European films, though no less beautiful. The gramophone, taking on a central position in the scene, alludes to the romanticism of a bygone era. The second still-video is a full version of the song, from which the lyrics are taken. Here, we get to fully appreciate the crisp vocals and effervescent melody of both P. Ramlee and Normadiah. Beautiful!
And now for something more upbeat. Like the previous ghazal tunes Memikat Janda (Charming a Divorcee) and Dia Datang (Here She Comes), Lenggang Lenggok (Swing and Sway) is a song dedicated to women – her captivating sways, her charming smiles, her glistening black Pantene locks…you get the idea. I guess women are just more interesting to sing and dance about than us men. As is now becoming customary, I’ve included two videos, although not for comparing with one another. The first video is a live performance by Singaporean artiste Marina Yusoff, which I think has been edited because some lyrics are missing. So I’ve put up a second video, which is a still-clip of the song in its entirety, featuring a duet by Siti Nurhaliza and Noraniza Idris, the two foremost artistes in the irama Malaysia genre.
Like most tunes in this genre, the song’s underlying message is about polite demeanour and self dignity, qualities highly coveted within the Malay community. The infamous bunga dedap, a flower blessed with big luscious red petals but completely lacking in fragrance gets a mention, to refer to a beautiful woman who lacks good manners. The diamond also gets a cameo appearance, for its glistening shine even when buried in a cesspool (I wonder if anyone’s ever tried to prove this). This of course refers to a woman with a pure heart, whose lustre will never be overlooked even if she is poor or unglamorous.
Korus (first 2 para) Chorus (first 2 para)
Lenggang lenggok bergaya Swaying and swinging in style
senyum manisnya her sweet smile
Sunguh menawan so captivating
Paras cantik memikat Her beautiful looks charm
gaya manjanya her adorable style
Hati tertawan captures the heart
Rambut panjang berjurai Long flowing locks
hitam berkilat shining black
Mayang mengurai like palm blossom streaks
Lemah lembut gayanya Fragile and gentle is her style
tersenyum simpul knotted smile
Lemah gemalai elegant fragility
Resah jangan diharap Don’t wish for anxiety
pagi yang cerah on a bright morning
Bawa bersenda that brings jest
Usah bagaikan dedap Don’t be like the dedap flower
sungguhpun merah despite its red colour
Harum tiada it lacks fragrance
Bukan kerana mawar It’s not due to the rose
kumbang mengidam that the bugs covet
Seri gubahan the radiant flower arrangement
Intan tetap bersinar Diamonds persist in shine
walau terbenam despite being buried
Di perlimbahan in cesspool
Korus (x2) Chorus (x2)
Cantik baju kebaya Beautiful kebaya dress
pukau warnanya stunning colours
Berbunga jarang with translucent floral patterns
Baik budi bahasa A polite demeanour
walau kemana wherever one may be
Dikenang orang will be cherished by all
Segar dingin terasa Fresh and cool it feels
bayu membelai the bayou caresses
Tiada henti without fail
Biar miskin kelana Let one be a poor vagabond
asalkan pandai as long as one knows
Mengambil hati how to flatter the heart
Menyusun tari, alah tari, sembah diberi Assembling the dance, o dance, I offer my salute
Cergas tangkas, alah sayang, gerak dan geri Fit and fast, o love, the movements go
Menjunjung tinggi, amboi tinggi, seni sejati In high regard I hold, o my how high, the pure arts
Pusaka asli, alah asli, hai ibu pertiwi True heritage, o true, o motherland
Berlenggang gaya, alah gaya, gerak wanita The swaying style, o style, of a woman’s moves
Dengan tari, alah sayang, tualang tiga With the dance, o love, of the three tualang trees
Menjunjung tinggi, amboi tinggi, seni budaya In high regard I hold, o my how high, the arts
Dikenang bangsa, alah bangsa, hai sepanjang masa Cherished by my country, o country, o til the end of time
Langkah serentak, alah sajak, sama bergerak Steps in rhythm, o poetry, together in motion
Sigak gaya, alah sayang, pendekar puteri The banishing styles, o love, of the warrior princesses
Bertepuk tangan, amboi tangan, tanda berani Hands a-clap clap, o hand, a gesture of bravery
Tiada gentar, alah sayang, hai membela diri Fearless, o love, in defending oneself
Tari Tualang Tiga (Dance of the Three Tualang Trees) is probably as close as you can get to a Malay war dance, in a culture more known for its charming grace and gentle sways. Based on the lyrics, the song and dance is performed to psych up fighters before an impending battle, although what is interesting is that, while it’s very common for the all-female dancers to channel feelings of brute force and intimidation to inspire courage in the audience, the song seems to also allude to an all-female battle crew.
The tualang is a giant tree found in the thick old-growth rainforests in Malaysia. I’m not entirely sure why the dance is named after the tree; it could be due to the sturdy wood structure, so tough that it’s actually not favoured by the timber industry, or more plausibly, the tragic legend of a palace handmaiden named Hitam Manis (Sweetly Dark). Hitam Manis fell in love with the prince, but alas, they could not marry because she was a commoner. The Sultan got word of the affair and was furious that his prince could fall in love with a commoner. Hitam Manis and her fellow maidens were forced to flee the palace, and as she was escaping, a metal spear pierced her heart. She and her maidens turned into bees and flew away. It is said that the bees which inhabit the tualang tree are descendants of Hitam Manis, and til this day, during the elaborate ritual of the tualang-honey hunting, no metal instrument is used to retrieve the honey, in deference to the suffering of the handmaiden.
This song features a rather common attribute of Malay folk songs whereby there is an interjecting phrase mid-sentence, for example:
“menyusun tari, ala tari, sembah diberi”
“menjunjung tinggi, amboi tinggi, seni sejati”
This abrupt musical device helps create emphasis and tempo to make it more “catchy” in an otherwise slow-paced song.
I’ve included two videos of the song, the first is the original deftly choreographed by the legendary Malaysian artiste the late Normadiah, while the latter is a version by songstress Siti Nurhaliza at a television awards ceremony (the actual song starts at 3:05). The two videos differ quite markedly in the tone and spirit of the song. I personally think the original version captures more closely the essence of the song, because it was sung and danced with a stern resoluteness and just the right dose of intoxicating charm that can be useful in dominating an enemy (it is after all a sort of war dance). In Siti Nurhaliza’s version, we witness that unmistakeably rich and harmonious voice that has made her the most popular modern Malaysian artiste, although I think, it is this same allure and richness that renders her version less fierce and intimidating than what it is intended to be.
In the debate over the use of “Allah” by Christians in Malaysia, I was interested to learn what the opposition Democratic Action Party (DAP) feels about this issue. And so I read the opinion piece crafted by DAP’s Life Adviser Dr Chen Man Hin, only to be disappointed – but somewhat unsurprised – by the lack of intelligent reasoning in his arguments.
What shocked me instead, was the irresponsible liberty he assumed in presenting his ideal of the world, as what the world actually is. “The majority of world Muslims, including Muslim Arabs, Muslim Africans, Muslim Indonesians and Muslim Malaysians have no problem with the use of Allah by Christians living amidst them for centuries” he boldly declares. Says who, Dr Chen? It makes sense for Arab Christians to use that word because, being native Arabic speakers, “Allah” becomes a generic term for God. But outside the Arab world, for example in the English-speaking world, “Allah” is specific to Muslims and Islam. Dr Chen’s failure to acknowledge this shows that he is either ignorant or disingenuous in his arguments. His confidence in proclaiming that the majority of Malaysian Muslims “have no problem” with the issue shows he is either out of touch or, if one is cynical, that he is simply repeating a lie in the hope that it will eventually pass off as a truth. Either way, this behaviour is inexcusable for a national politician.
Dr Chen, ever the politician, certainly knows the power of repetition, and he doesn’t refrain from using it. “PM Najib (sic) open support for UMNO’s retrogressive stand against the use of Allah by Christians shows that his 1Malaysia…will once again fail to deliver his promises to the people”. This man, DAP’s appointed life adviser, takes it upon himself to label it “retrogressive” to give himself a monopoly over what is right and wrong. And he commits this again thus: “PM Najib (sic) open support for UMNO’s repressive policies will bring bring (sic) serious consequences”. There it is again, in a slightly altered form. He uses these two very decisive and morally-righteous terms even when the issue is actually morally-ambiguous. Repeat! and they will follow, seems to be his weapon of choice in disseminating half-cooked propaganda.
Indeed, Dr Chen has a soft spot for blindly following. “It looks like that (sic) UMNO’s stand against the use of Allah by Christians is contrary to the thinking and practices by Muslims in the Middle East, Africa and Indonesia”. Oh, so now we’re expected to follow whatever it is people are doing overseas? Since when did Muslims in those parts of the world become role models in the Islamic world? Bear in mind, that he has not even bothered to conclusively prove how widespread the use of Allah by Christians is in those areas, if at all.
Dr Chen feels that opposition to the use of “Allah” by Christians somehow violates religious freedom and the concept of 1Malaysia. The fact is, it does not. We can be united as a country while still observing our separate religious and cultural practices. I don’t have to wear a cross, just as a Christian doesn’t have to fast during Ramadan, for the sake of being one united harmonious country. Religious freedom without respect for religious sensitivities and consideration for the religious make-up, heritage and character of our country is simply making a mockery of the term. It is bemusing that Dr Chen Man Hin has the cheek to pass off his sloppy arguments as reasoned debate. It is shameful that the DAP, a national party which purports to serve the interests of all Malaysians, fails to understand the essence of this issue.
In light of the recent spate of attacks on churches in Malaysia, let’s get one thing straight. It is never, ever acceptable to commit violence against any religious house of worship. In peace or in war, respect must always be accorded to the sanctity of churches, synagogues, temples, shrines and mosques to those who worship in them. We see these kinds of attacks in other countries – most notably the mindless destruction of the ancient Buddha statues of Bamiyan in Afghanistan by the Taliban, the Babri mosque in India by Hindu extremists, or the graffiti-stained synagogues in Europe by neo-Nazis. But I would never have imagined such senseless crimes being committed in a country like Malaysia, where churches, mosques and temples abound, a testament to the multifaceted religious beliefs of its people.
Such vile actions have no justification, but undoubtedly the court ruling allowing the use of the word Allah by The Herald, a Catholic newspaper, helped ignite the furore and confusion among most Muslims, and many non-Muslims alike. I, too, disagree completely with the decision, and I am appalled by the judge’s ignorance, or perhaps even arrogance, in upsetting the religious sensibilities Malaysians have worked hard to balance for decades.
Some people question what the fuss is all about. After all, Allah is just the Arabic word for God, isn’t it? Christians in the Middle East have been using that word for centuries, without any protest from their Muslim countrymen. What’s the big deal? Well, it may be perfectly acceptable for Arabs, regardless of their religion, to use that word because in the Arabic language, Allah simply means God. However, outside of the Middle East, Allah is a specific word which is inextricably linked to Muslims and Islamic practice. In the Malaysian context, it is not simply another word for God, but is one of 99 names of the Almighty which Muslims are enjoined to remember and reflect upon.
The Herald claims it merely wishes to translate Christian texts for the benefit of its non-English speaking congregation. Maybe they don’t know this, but there is already a common and perfectly acceptable Malay word for God, and that is Tuhan. It is used by both Muslims and non-Muslims alike, and due to its general meaning, is not likely to create any confusion as to which religion it belongs to. The word for God in the English Bible, believe it or not, is God, not Allah, so why is the newspaper so intent on borrowing the Arabic term? If the newspaper is suddenly fascinated by the Arabic language, which I must admit is a beautiful and elegant tongue, would it also then use solat to denote prayers, or jemaah for its congregation?
Supporters and sympathisers of the ruling argue that the word Allah has been used in the Bible in East Malaysia for decades, and this somehow justifies the recent ruling in West Malaysia. Well, an error left uncorrected does not excuse its replication. In the absence of a valid reason for using the Arabic Allah, rather than the Malay Tuhan, when translating non-Islamic religious texts from English to Malay, one can’t help but to question the real motive behind the move.
Seri Langkat Kuala Tungkal, amboi Seri Langkat Kuala Tungkal, oh my
Padi pulut enak rasanya, sayang Glutinous rice it’s so delicious, my love
Kalaulah kail, kalaulah kail panjang sejengkal If one’s fishing line, if one’s fishing line can only go so long
Janganlah laut hendak diduga Don’t even think of challenging the sea
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Dayunglah sampan menuju pulau, amboi Let’s row the sampan towards the island, oh my
Bila sampainya daku tak tahu, sayang The time of arrival I know not, my love
Ombak dan badai, ombak dan badai takkan kuhirau Wave or storm, wave or storm concern me not
Asalkan sampai tempat kutuju As long as I reach the place I head for
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Buahlah betik dalam perahu, amboi A papaya lies inside the boat, oh my
Enak dimakan di hari petang, sayang Delicious eaten in the afternoon, my love
Hidup di dunia, hidup di dunia kalau berilmu One’s life on earth, one’s life on earth if laden with knowledge
Jadi sanjungan setiap orang Will be admired by all
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Seri Langkat lagunya ini, amboi Seri Langkat is this song, oh my
Bunga melati di dalam hidup, sayang As the jasmine flower in life, my love
Bagaikan sifat, bagaikan sifat si batang padi Like the character, like the character of a paddy stem
Makin berisi tambah merunduk The heavier it gets the lower it bows
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Seri Langkat Kuala Tungkal, amboi Seri Langkat Kuala Tungkal, oh my
Padi pulut enak rasanya, sayang Glutinous rice it’s so delicious, my love
Kalaulah kail, kalaulah kail panjang sejengkal If one’s fishing line, if one’s fishing line can only go so long
Janganlah laut hendak diduga Don’t even think about challenging the sea
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Dayunglah sampan menuju pulau, amboi Let’s row the sampan towards the island, oh my
Bila sampainya daku tak tahu, sayang The time of arrival I know not, my love
Ombak dan badai, ombak dan badai takkan kuhirau Wave or storm, wave or storm concern me not
Asalkan sampai tempat kutuju As long as I reach the place I head for
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Amboi, Seri Langkat Oh my, Seri Langkat
Seri Langkat
Seri Langkat
This could very well be my all-time favourite song, this classic rendition of the old Malay tune Seri Langkat by Jamal Abdillah and Amelina, her sensuous elegance and supple voice perfectly matched by his deep, old-world masculinity. Seri Langkat is presumably a destination, and those familiar with the Malay language will recognise easily the ancient charm the mere whisper of the name evokes.
Like most traditional tunes, this song is composed of pantun verses, where the first two lines act as ‘hints’, while the last two lines contain the actual messages the speaker intends to relay. There is usually no direct connection between the ‘hints’ and the ‘messages’, although occasionally one can make subtle links between the two. Seri Langkat can be classified as an old school Malay love song, which means there’s very little expression of love, at least not the kind we are used to nowadays. Malay love songs are very different from the wildly passionate, heart thumping if-I-don’t-see-you-for-even-one-day-I-will-die verses common in Middle Eastern poetry, a contemporary version of which is beautifully (if a bit comical) rendered by Lebanese singer Fares Karam in his video Khetyar 3al 3ekaza below.
Old-world Malay couples express their love and adoration through gentle teasing and offering kind advice using pantun verses playfully traded back and forth. It speaks of an innocent, bygone era when social rituals such as courtship were laced with poetry, usually avoiding in-your-face romanticism. It is really only in modern times that Malay love songs contain overt love themes, which I find a little too emo and mushy.
The pieces of advice contained in the song are mostly universal and easily understood, for example “one’s life on earth if laden with knowledge; will be admired by all”. In contrast, the fourth pantun is more culturally-specific. “Like the character of a paddy stem, the heavier it gets the lower it bows” refers to the way a paddy stem gradually bends lower as the rice grains develop and become heavier at the top. It alludes to how a person should behave; the more knowledge they gain, the humbler they should be.
Whenever I come across the word padi I go back in time to my Malay Language class in high school, where my teacher Puan Nooriza told us that apparently there were only three words that are of pure Malay origin – padi, paku and babi (paddy, iron nail and pig). This is of course an exaggerated claim, but I think it is a potent symbol of the Malay world’s long and proud tradition of openness and acceptance of foreign cultures, our ability to include and meld them into our own and become all the richer for it.